Anyone interested. A few spots left.
Prolly jus screw up my flo
Nothing for me to improve on lol
Today’s the day. Gonna learn how to throw more roost & kick up more dust!
Dirt Bike Set Up
Here are a few key things to check:
• Start with in line with forks. Make sure that they are not rolled too far forward
or too far back because this will create negative handling.
• Levers should be slightly lower than parallel to the ground. This is to get the
correct hand position on the bars so you can soften your grip and relax.
• Set just above parallel with foot pegs for
single track, not too much travel in the
rear brake. You need to be able to operate
the rear brake without having to move
• Make sure that the steering head has the correct tension on bearing, and that it
has slight drag.
• Lower in the clamps for increased stability, higher in the clamps (more lines
showing at the top) for faster turn in, more responsiveness.
• For technical riding the softer the rear the better, juggling traction vs flat tire
prevention. The slower the terrain the softer your tire should be, the faster the
terrain the higher the pressure needs to be. SUPER ROUGH GUIDE On a wet
slippery technical ride 8 to 10 psi. Fast dry ride 15-17 psi on a light enduro bike.
Basic Body Positioning
• Hips over foot pegs: Your weight should be central to balance the bike, not
central to the seat.
• Sitting up: To engage core strength with correct posture.
• Elbows: In the braced position, elbows wide with a straight plane from shoulder
to elbow to wrist.
• Balls of your feet on the foot pegs.
• Knees in against the tank.
• Balls of your feet on the pegs, toes in against
• Shins close to vertical.
• Bend through your hips, not your spine.
• Head up, looking forwards.
• Elbows wide.
• The lower your triangle the more stable you
and your bike become.
• Don’t forget your ‘oh shit!’ position.
• The way you grip the bars is really important. Rather than gripping the bar
squarely you need to keep your wrist straight and load into the bar with outside
of your palm.
• You need to adjust your standing position so that you have a slight pressure on
the bars through your palms rather than holding on with your fingers.
• Hips forward of the foot pegs to load the front of the bike. The aim is to keep your
weight acting directly over the tires, pushing them into the ground to create
traction. As the bike leans over you need to move your hips to the outside and keep
your head centred over the tire.
• Keep the same straight plane in your elbows to maintain strength.
• As you open the throttle you need to push down on the outside footpeg to create
the traction for the rear wheel rather than moving backwards on the seat.
• Turn your head and look through the corner.
• Ride with your shoulders parallel to the surface you are riding on. Keep your
shoulders level on flat corners, lent over for ruts and berms.
• Again the aim is to have your weight centred directly over the tires to create
maximum traction and control.
• Initiate the turn with slight pressure on the inside footpeg. As soon as the bike is
leant over swing your hips to the outside and place all your weight on to the
outside foot peg.
• It is important to try and keep your knees in the same place, if you push your
knees forward you will be inefficient and it will hurt.
• Keep your head centred over the front tire and the same braced position with
Good stuff @KTM-Bryon! I keep a roll of TP & a newspaper in my backpack for my ‘oh shit!’ experiences. By the way, the last point under ‘Standing’ is cut-off.
Fixed it above. Check this out
Camera battery died but Chris made it up the steep loose hill at Cat Lake in Squamish. He made a 90 corner 3/4 of the way up. The battery died here but he then made it up 10 more feet of steep climbing and up over a one foot root step up at the top!
I made it up this hill 3 out 6 tries without even thinking about making that 90 deg corner! LOL. Tougher than she looks…